Alice in Wanderlust

Often in Paris...

2010-04-19T03:41:00.003+02:00

... the line for the eiffel tower can stretch aaaaaalllll the way around the base.

When you finally make it up to the top, though...

... the view makes it all worthwhile.

Ax

mrs dalloway said she would buy the flowers herself

2010-03-26T06:15:00.002+01:00

I was having a bad day, and this was the only way I could think to make it better.

A x

not all those who wander are lost

2010-03-14T12:09:00.002+01:00

Check out kris atomic's "I want to go there" post. I want to go everywhere. The only question is: how?

Time flies

2010-01-22T10:29:00.002+01:00

Coucou... it's been awhile, I know. In fact it's almost six months exactly since I left Paris.

Moving back to Australia has been a lot more of an upheaval than I would ever have expected. I think I imagined that I would just be able to slip back into life in Melbourne as if I had never left, but it hasn't been that easy. I think perhaps Paris changed me a lot more than I realised at the time, and I've had a hard time adjusting.

I think I've almost got it figured out now.

So I'm hoping to get back to blogging, maybe. I've just started planning a trip to New York to visit some friends I made in Paris, and the idea of travelling again has made me want to dip my fingers back into this blog as well. I've missed it, a little.

Alice x

P.S. Do you like how I've decided to display all the polaroids I took in Europe? Much better than having them hanging around in a drawer gathering dust, methinks.

Hello world, it's me, I'm still here!

2009-08-11T08:48:00.002+02:00

Oops, where does the time go? Last time I wrote, I was relaxing on the beach in Greece without a care in the world. Now, I'm sitting at my desk in Melbourne, the rain pattering on the window beside me and deadlines piling up alarmingly all around, with mediteranean beaches a long-gone dream. In between then and now there's been 39 degree days in Athens, a final weekend in Paris, afternoon tea in London, mini-breaks in the english countryside, and an excruciating 22 hour flight which landed me back in this strange country sometimes referred to as home.

I'm still getting used to the idea of not living in Paris anymore (I wont say it doesn't hurt), but there are upsides to being back in Australia - notably not having to pre-plan scripts before attempting any kind of social interaction. (Everyone here speaks english! What a revelation!) I do miss my french friends though, and strolling down the Boulevard Saint-Germain, and catching glimpses of the Seine every day. Actually, don't get me started...

Paris, tu me manques.

Alice x

P.S. I took this polaroid in Santorini - I think it's completely impossible to take a photo of that place that isn't beautiful. More to come!

Mini-update #1: Paros vs Paris

2009-06-30T20:17:00.002+02:00

Ahoy there! I've swapped Paris for Paros, an island in the Cyclades in Greece. The weather has been completely beautiful, I can't believe it's still raining in Paris (or indeed, anywhere in the world!) I spent most of today lying under a palm leaf umbrella with the agean sea lapping at my toes, and my plans for tomorrow are very similar, although I think I may mix it up with a bit of strolling along the beach and perhaps a spot or two of sitting on a balcony sipping cocktails. Life is awful, truly. More + pics soon!

Alice x

Conflicting emotions

2009-06-25T21:23:00.002+02:00

The art of travel, originally uploaded by CromagnondePeyrignac.

Well my suitcase is packed, my apartment is clean and by this time tomorrow I'll be in Barcelona. I'm a little bit sad, actually, but I'm trying not to let it get to me - there are so many adventures ahead! I'm going to miss this little apartment though, with its big windows and proximity to the boulangerie. I can't believe this year has gone by so fast.

There's only one surefire way I know to shake myself out of this melancholy mood - talking about travelling! Lucky I've got lots of adventures ahead of me this month.

Tomorrow I'm headed to Barcelona with a friend for the weekend, where we plan to spend the whole time lying on the beach drinking cocktails and eating paella.

Then next week, I'm off to Greece. I'm planning on doing a bit of tripping around the Cyclades, definitely stopping off in Santorini, plus maybe a few other islands.

I'm going to swing by Athens for a few days (and check out the just-opened archeological museum) before heading back to Paris for one last final fling with the ville lumiere. I won't have my apartment anymore, so I'll be kipping on a friend's couch, and I have a feeling there will be lots of cheese and wine involved.

After my farewell to Paris I'll be jumping on the Eurostar and heading over to jolly England for a week or so to catch up with some friends and rellies. I've already booked tickets to the Globe and a ballet, plus I'm planning on lots of devonshire tea (for lunch) and fish & chips (for tea)!

Finally, 25 days from now, I will be boarding the new Airbus 380, destination: Melbourne. (I'm a bit scared, actually - how can something that big float up in the air?) I'm sad that this year has almost come to an end, but happy to be going home, and excited about the next few weeks.

Stay tuned!

Alice x

The rain in spain stays mainly in the plain

2009-06-22T23:01:00.005+02:00

I've had a crazy day. I've been trying to simultaneously pack up my whole apartment, study for my final exam (which I had today - yippee!), write two papers, plan my trip to Greece and organise the food for a dinner party I'm throwing tomorrow. Not to mention mentally preparing myself for the idea that, as of friday, I will no longer live in Paris. Eek!

All of which is to say, I'm completely run off my feet, so if I disappear from the blogosphere for awhile don't despair: I wont have fallen off the face of the earth (I'll be running much too fast for that). I'll definitely be back at least once more before friday, to fill you in on my travel plans for the next month. For now, here's a picture of my feet. Just because.

Alice x

Crêpes, icecream and a sunset - what more could you want?

2009-06-19T18:40:00.008+02:00

The rue st andre-des-arts in the 6éme is packed with all sorts of restaurants, but for some reason I only ever go there for crêpes. So when I was in the area last night catching up with friends for the last time before I leave Paris (sad!) it was only natural that we stopped in at one of the tiny little hole-in-the-wall crêperies for a bite to eat.

Crêpes are pretty high on my list of must-eats while in Paris. They originate from Brittany, in the north of France, and traditionally contain just one or two ingredients, although most crêperies these days offer gourmet-style crêpes that contain everything from fetta to pine-nuts. The best place for crêperies in Paris is in the 15éme arrondisment, near the Gare Montparnasse, where immigrants from Brittany used to arrive and set up shop. Nowadays there are also takeaway crêpe stalls all over the city, which are especially good for late-night nutella crêpes on the way home from a night out (though true crêpe connoisseurs would probably be shocked at such an idea).

Despite their less authentic location, however, the crêperies in the 6éme offer an equally delicious (and reasonably cheap) taste of Brittany. Not being one to mess with a classic, I went with the basic egg-and-cheese galette, while my dining companions were a bit more adventurous, as you can see!

After dinner we grabbed some ice-cream from Amorino (the best icecream in Paris, in my entirely biased opinion. If you go there, be sure to try the 'inimitable' flavour - it's like heaven in a cup) and went for a stroll along the banks of the Seine while we waited for the sun to set.

There's not many places that can hold a candle to a view like that!

Happy weekending :)

Alice x

P.S. If you're in Paris and on a budget, most of the crêperies on st-andre-des-arts have lunch-time deals where you can get a savoury galette, a desert crepe and drink for about 10 euros: a great way to experience parisian dining without the dinner-time price tag :)

Art is all around (this is Paris)

2009-06-18T17:19:00.005+02:00

I came home yesterday to discover that my courtyard had been temporarily transformed into an art gallery:

There's a children's drawing atelier that operates out of our basement and I can only assume that this was their end-of-semester exhibition, though the drawings are astonishingly good quality for children - I wish I could draw half as well!

For a few hours there was a constant buzz of activity outside my windows, as people streamed in our front gate to gaze at the lovely works - I managed to snap this shot at a relatively quiet moment (I was too afraid to take photos earlier on, as my camera is quite noisy and french mothers terrify me!) After awhile I went out for dinner, and when I came home it was all gone and silence had returned, with only this photo to prove that I hadn't imagined the whole thing.

Only in Paris.

Alice x

P.S. If you click on the photo it will take you to the full size file, so that you can see the drawings close-up. Some of those kids are incredibly talented - I wonder if I've unwittingly captured the first exhibition of the next Picasso?

Last bunch of Sunday fleurs

2009-06-17T08:46:00.002+02:00

I splurged a little on the weekend and bought this bunch of peonies from the fancy florist up the road (instead of my normal cheap bulk flower shop). I rationalised it by telling myself that they were the last bunch of flowers that I would buy in Paris, so I could afford to spend a bit more than usual. And they're beautiful, right?

Eight days to go.

Alice x

Saturday Night Fever in Paris

2009-06-16T22:26:00.006+02:00

Strolling down by the Jardin de Plantes on Saturday night I stumbled upon the most happening spot in Paris - this little paved area on the banks of the Seine, where possibly the most atmospheric ballroom dance class ever was taking place.

Tinkly music was drifting on the breeze and the couples were waltzing and twirling like pros, while boats cruised by and the sun set over the Notre Dame in the distance.

Sometimes Paris is so amazing I almost can't stand it.

Alice x

Disaster!

2009-06-16T17:27:00.002+02:00

You're probably wondering where all my polaroids have gone. Well, disaster struck this weekend. As I was putting my camera in my bag to take it on a bit of an outing to the park, I dropped it on the floor, and a bit broke off, and now it doesn't work! Very sad. I had hoped that I'd be able to do some kind of DIY repair-job, but no such luck. So my idea of daily-polaroids to record my last days in Paris is no more. Here's the very last photo I took with my dearly departed camera before its sad demise:

It's of the classroom where on friday I had my very last class at Sciences Po. Hurrah! Just the horrid exams to go now, of course.

Alice x

P.S. I just realised, since all the polaroid film in the world is expiring in September, this might be the last polaroid I take EVER. Sad thoughts :(

Two more days slip by...

2009-06-12T11:40:00.002+02:00

I've still been sticking to my plan to take a polaroid a day to record my last 20 days in Paris. (16 days to go!)

Wednesday's polaroid is of my metro stop at Saint-Germain de Prés. The guy in the bike rode through the shot at the last minute, but it's really a good example of the constantly bustling nature of the quartier. Just opposite this metro station is the Place Sartre-Beauvoir and the famous café, Les Deux Magots, where they used to go to write their books and wax lyrical about the nature of the universe. I've only been there once - it's completely lovely but a hot chocolate costs 7 euros! No wonder Sartre & Beauvoir eventually moved down the street to Café Flore.

Yesterday's photo is of dinner-time last night at L'As du Falafel in the Marais: they have the best falafels in Paris (and possibly even the world). Words can not express how delicious they are. My mouth is watering right now.

Alice x

Eighteen days and counting

2009-06-09T19:27:00.002+02:00

I've pretty much been inside all day, as it's been kinda rainy and I've had masses of work to do. So today's polaroid doesn't show much about Paris, though I suppose it could go under the sub-heading of 'my parisian life'?

Anyway, this is a little corner of my little apartment. I would say it's a corner of my bedroom, but it's pretty hard to distinguish between the bedroom, lounge room and kitchen around here. I don't mind, though. Actually, I kind of love it.

Why is it that you only realise how much you love something when you're about to leave it?

Alice x

P.S. Incase you were wondering, those books you can see on the bedside table are Alice Munroe's "hateship, friendship, courtship, loveship, marriage", Louis de Bernières "The troublesome offspring of Cardinal Guzman" and an awful book about Napoleon that I put there just incase I felt like learning something before I went to sleep. Bet you can guess how often that happens!

I have 19 days...

2009-06-08T08:40:00.003+02:00

...left in Paris.

I can't believe it. This year has just flown by. Even though I can now order a croissant without fear and give people directions to the nearest metro without giving myself a headache, I sometimes feel as though I'm still newly arrived off the plane, just finding my feet in this strange new world.

I'm not sure that I'm ready to leave Paris. I'm trying not to think about it.

Instead, I have many a plan for my last 19 days. Visits to Laduree, and Angelina's, and Les deux magots. Picnics by the Seine. One last glance round the d'Orsay.

And to document it all: two new packs of polaroid film. Which gives me 20 photos. Or, one for every day left.

So here's today's Paris Daily Polaroid: the view from my kitchen window this morning (see my potted geranium?) I'm going to miss this apartment!

Alice x

world environment day revisited...

2009-06-06T20:23:00.004+02:00

Here's a few pics from the World Environment Day event on the Champs de Mars last night. It was so lovely sitting on our picnic blanket, eating popcorn (we were at the cinema) and waiting for the sun to go down so the movie could start.

I was amazed how many people showed up! We were there quite early so we had a pretty prime spot near the screens - but I wonder how much those people up the back there could actually see?

In any case it was a lovely way to spend a friday evening, under the sparkling eiffel tower - and an added bonus that we were supporting world environment day, too! :)

Alice x

P.S. The film ("Home") was really great, with amazing cinematography. If you haven't seen it yet you definitely should, it's available to view for free on the website.

Happy World Environment Day

2009-06-05T11:19:00.004+02:00

I'm just emerging out of my study-induced hibernation to wish you all a very happy World Environment Day! It's lovely and sunny in Paris today and I'm feeling particularly fond of mother nature.

Originally uploaded by Eric Lafforgue

According to the United Nations Environment Program, the aim of World Environment Day is to "stimulate worldwide awareness of the environment and enhance political attention and action". One of the best ways you can help raise awareness today is to attend one of the events organized in your local area and lend your physical support to your local environmental charities. People equal power! Check out the UNEP website for info on what's happening in your neighbourhood.

Personally, I'm heading down to the Champs de Mars tonight to catch the premiere of Yann Arthus-Bertrand's film HOME (which serves a slightly selfish double-purpose, actually, as I get to have a picnic under the eiffel tower and support world environment day at the same time!) It's screening simultaneously in Paris, New York, Barcelona, Bristol & Cancun, so if you're in any of those cities go here to find out all about it. For those of you not lucky enough to be near a venue that's screening the film tonight, it can also be viewed (for free!) at the website. So grab some buddies and some popcorn, and help raise environmental awareness!

Happy tree-planting,
Alice x

P.S. You can follow the UNEP on twitter - they will plant 1 tree for every follower so head over there and follow them now!

There's more to life than books, you know. But not much more.

2009-05-31T14:40:00.002+02:00

Driving through Northumberland recently, I happened upon heaven disguised as a second-hand bookshop.

Barter Books in Alnwick has been described as "The British Library of secondhand books" though in my opinion it's even better than the BL because you can take the books home with you! The shop is housed in an old railway station that is filled to the rafters with every type of book under the sun, as well as a little café, a children's area, and tons of reading space. After much coveting of the huge selection of first editions and out-of-print paperbacks I finally settled on a lovely old copy of "The Wishing Chair Again" plus two biographies (Helene Hanff & JRR Tolkein) - only the realization that if I bought any more books they wouldn't let me back on the plane stopped me from taking home half the store.

If you're a lover of second-hand bookshops and anywhere nearby the Scottish border (I passed through on my way from Edinburgh to York) it's definitely worth the detour. Alnwick itself is a pretty town, perfect for a lunch stop, and as a bonus it has the added drawcard of Alnwick castle (which - for Harry Potter nerds - happens to be the castle that Hogwarts is based on).

Off to read a book,

Alice x

(P.S. Title quote is from The Smiths' song Handsome Devil. Hurrah for pop-culture references.)

Let's be serious for a second

2009-05-29T11:44:00.008+02:00

(Via Jezebel, Israeli children playing in an illegal Jewish settlement in Ramallah on the West Bank. )

I've been working on an essay this week focussing on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, and then just this morning I logged onto Jezebel and saw this photograph which made me stop and reconsider everything I've been reading. It's been all too easy, from the comfort of my apartment, to be condescending and even flippant about the sources of the conflict, and to judge those who are perpetuating it. For days now, I've been writing about the frustrating political deadlock that various governments have seemed unable (and sometimes unwilling) to try and solve. It had come to the point where I was so caught up in the political rhetoric, I'd forgotten about the human element to these kind of conflicts. This photograph pulled me up short.

Yes, horrible mistakes have been committed by both sides. But these three little girls? They've done nothing wrong. You cannot blame the children for the sins of their parents.

I'm not sure what the solution is here, because as far as I can see there is no moral high ground to escape to. But for the people living in these countries, there is no escape at all. The only way that these children can grow up having happy, safe lives is if the political leaders of their communities can come to some sort of an agreement. The paths that their lives will take is proof that politics is about more than just rhetoric. I'm glad to have been reminded of it.

Alice x

where troubles melt like lemondrops

2009-05-16T23:05:00.005+02:00

The sun was sparkling over the Mediterranean as we strolled down the path from one postcard-perfect village to the next. We stopped for coffee at a tiny cafe literally hanging over the side of the cliff and watched as, further down the path, some fellow-walkers abandoned their hike for an improputu swim. Was there anything, we pondered, that could make already-magical Cinque Terre feel more like wonderland?

Well, how about a pair of playful butterflies, flittering around us as we walked? Oh, yes, we had those too.

Somedays you just get lucky.

Alice x

P.S. More on Cinque Terre coming soon, as well as London, Cambridge, York, Epernay, Versailles, Bruges and Amsterdam! Oh la la, the places I have been lately - scarcely time to breathe. And with summer just around the corner, too...

and a rustle of tulle from the wings...

2009-05-13T16:38:00.006+02:00

Last night some friends and I got all dolled up in our swishest frocks and headed out to the prettiest venue in Paris, the Opera Garnier. We had tickets to see Onéguine (a classical ballet based on the novel by Pushkin) but as excited as we were about the show, we were just as interested in getting a peek inside the amazing building that is the Palais Garnier.

Our tickets themselves were thanks to a parisienne insider tip which I'll share with you all (but shhh!): if you go directly to the box office at the opera house you can get "limited visibility" tickets for all the shows for super-cheap that aren't available online - ours were 10 euros! The view was a little bit limited from our seats, which were the back row of one of the boxes, but we found that we could always stand up if the dancers went out of our line of sight and then we could see perfectly. Which was totally acceptable for 10€! (especially considering a ticket to get into the opera house to sightsee when there are no shows on costs 8€- for the extra 2€ you get a ballet thrown in!)

The Opera Garnier is the building that inspired Gaston Leroux's Phantom of the Opera (which also happens to be my favourite musical of all time). I kept an eye out for the phantom all night, but he didn't make an appearance, though his infamous chandeliers were glitteringly present.

In any case, even if the curtains had never opened, it would have been 10€ well spent for a night out in Paris. Now don't you go telling everyone about those cheap seats - at least not until I've bought my next ticket! (I'm thinking La fille mal gardée in June - it was one of my favourite ballets when I used to dance).

Happy opera-going!

Alice x

P.S. Onéguine was lovely, I definitely recommend it if you're going to be in Paris before it ends on the 20th of May.

Another year older

2009-04-23T10:17:00.003+02:00

Did I tell you that it was my birthday a few days ago? With all the excitement of recent travels I almost forgot it myself, but someone else remembered and got me this delicious cake from my favourite patisserie. How lucky am I?

It's long gone now, of course. Can't leave something that valuable sitting around in the fridge!

Alice x

London with Christopher Robin

2009-04-22T21:40:00.003+02:00

They're changing guard at Buckingham Palace -
Christopher Robin went down with Alice.
Alice is marrying one of the guard.
"A soldier's life is terribly hard,"
Says Alice.

They're changing guard at Buckingham Palace -
Christopher Robin went down with Alice.
We saw a guard in a sentry-box.
"One of the sergeants looks after their socks,"
Says Alice.

They're changing guard at Buckingham Palace -
Christopher Robin went down with Alice.
"Do you think the King knows all about me?"
"Sure to, dear, but it's time for tea,"
Says Alice.

{Words by A.A. Milne}

Have finally returned from gallivanting around Britain, and am now suffering from severe tea & scone withdrawal symptoms which even croissants from my favourite boulangerie are failing to soothe.

More on lovely london (including Shakespeare's birthday celebrations!) to come.

A different Alice x

A little something to tide you over

2009-04-19T01:02:00.002+02:00

In essence, I suppose, this is a post about how I'm too busy to post! I've been a bit of a busy bee since Easter - so far I've been to Portsmouth, the Lakes, Edinburgh, York, Cambridge, and now, London. Phew. We've had the full spectrum of weather, as well - teeming rain, fog so thick you can barely see the end of your nose, blue skies, grey clouds, thunderstorms, and today, finally, one of those completely perfect english spring days that almost makes you forget the rest of it ever happened.

I've got two jam-packed days in London to go, and then back to Paris for rest & recuperation (and work, I suppose). Until then, here's a little pic of the blossoms in Cambridge.

Spring! Hurrah!

Alice x

Words and Pictures - Cold Feet

2009-04-08T08:35:00.004+02:00

Via Meet Me at Mikes - "Words and Pictures is a weekly creative challenge, posting words (or pictures!) to suit a weekly theme." This weeks theme is 'Cold Feet' - if you're looking for some inspiration, head over to Mikes and check out the posts on the previous topics!

My feet have never been colder than they were this past winter in Paris! Even with two layers of tights and a pair of fluffy woolen socks stuffed inside my boots, every time I stepped out of the house my feet would go numb within seconds of hitting the snow-covered pavements, and it would take hours of sitting infront of the tiny radiator in my flat before the feeling returned to them. Now that spring has sprung and the footpaths are no longer icy accidents waiting to happen, I can waltz outside with nary a sock in sight - but I will never again take my warm feet for granted!

Alice x

Looking for Amélie's Paris

2009-04-07T22:16:00.005+02:00

Some of my family from Australia are visiting me at the moment, so we've been trekking around all the regular tourist haunts. Yesterday the day dawned clear and bright, so we headed up to Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement to check out the view over Paris.

The 'bohemian village' of Montmartre, with its clichéd cafes, dancehalls and perpetually starving artists, is one of the most recognizable images of Paris (after the Eiffel Tower, perhaps!) Made famous by films like Moulin Rouge and Amélie (called, more evocatively, Le Fabuleux Destin d'Amélie Poulain in french), its narrow winding streets are crowned by the breathtaking Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, built in 1873 in order to atone for the crimes committed during the reign of the Paris Commune. The steps leading up to the church are surrounded by large patches of lush green lawn, perfect for lying around enjoying the beautiful spring weather - as the masses of locals and tourists we spotted soaking up the sun yesterday can attest to.

We wound our way through the crowds up to the top of the hill, but soon escaped the madness of the main thoroughfare for the calm of the back streets. We wandered past windmills, vineyards and hidden gardens, stopping along the way for icecream and coffee, and were just about to head back down when I caught this glimpse of the basilica. Though the building features prominently on every postcard-stand in Paris, seeing a sliver of it like this from a slightly unusual angle can still take your breath away.

I can just imagine Amélie skipping down here on her way home, can't you?

Alice x

All the world's a stage

2009-04-07T11:17:00.002+02:00

Coming home late last night I walked past this gorgeous advertisement for the Paris Opera, illuminated on the side of a bus shelter . I'm often disparaging of advertising in general, but I must admit sometimes there are gems amongst the garbage. Doesn't this make you want to run straight down to the opera house and book a ticket? And I don't even like opera!

Alice x

A rainbow of doorways

2009-04-05T21:38:00.005+02:00

The locals in Asilah seemed to be having a competition as to who could paint their door the most beautiful shade of blue or green. There wasn't a single unpainted panel in town. I would have loved to have seen the local paintshop - I wonder how often they sell a tin of red or orange?

Wouldn't these be wonderful to come home to after a long day? (I especially love the twin doors - I wonder who lives behind them?)

And then there's this view.

But then again I've always had a weakness for sunsets over the ocean.

Alice x

Is it a bird? Is it a plane?

2009-04-04T21:16:00.008+02:00

No, it's a roller-blading policeman...

This is one of those things that would be hilarious in any other city, but in Paris it's just accepted without question. Policemen on rollerblades? "C'est normale, non?" (often accompanied by a shrug and a sidelong glance that says "you silly uneducated foreigner").

Knowing we've been a bit word-heavy this week, I deliberately took my camera with me when I went out this afternoon so that I could share some lovely parisian springtime images with you - and then promptly forgot about it. So this image is actually from last September, just after I first moved to Paris. I was peacefully strolling down the side of the Seine one day when I was almost bowled over by these three policemen speeding past me on roller-blades - as soon as I realised what they were I scrambled to get my camera out before they disappeared, and just managed to snap this shot. Meanwhile, noone else around me so much as batted an eyelid, apparently roller-blading policemen are nothing out of the ordinary. Vive la France, I say.

Alice x

A Long Drive

2009-04-03T08:59:00.007+02:00

I always left Melbourne after work on Fridays, often sneaking out a little early to try and avoid the long lines of traffic which always lead out of the city at the beginning of the weekend. Once I made it through the congestion and onto the freeway, I would wind down the windows and press the accelerator to the floor, checking the time - 2.5 hours to go, and counting.

The first half hour was always the worst, as the roads were still clogged with commuters and city folk heading out to fashionable weekend destinations nearby. As we got closer to the middle of nowhere, however, the traffic thinned and, depending on how early I'd managed to escape Melbourne, I was often one of the only cars on the road.

Sometimes, depending on the time, I would stop at the same little wayside stop for some hot chips, juggling them and the steering wheel as the towns skipped merrily by.

Hours passed, and eventually, as the sky began to darken, a familiar green exit sign would appear and I would swing the wheel to the left, stepping gently on the brakes. The township I was entering was almost as well-known to me as my final destination, and the familiar signs and shopfronts were a comfort - a reminder that things rarely change out here.

At this point, I would pull over and make a final call, before the rolling hills made mobile-phone reception an impossibility. "Where are you?" the voice on the other end would say, and I would smile. "I"m nearly there. Do you need me to pick up anything?". "No", the voice always said, "Just keep coming. We'll see you soon".

Driving through the town, I turned onto a little road without a signpost, but it didn't matter - I didn't need directions anymore. This road was narrow and winding, with trees crowded around the fence-line and wide paddocks beyond. Ramshackle farmhouses appeared infrequently on its edges, and their little flickering lights were often the only other signs of life. The constant bends and turns could have been worrying to someone who was driving the road for the first time, but to me they were familiar and welcoming, and I felt that even if I should close my eyes they would carry me on.

Often, as I got closer, people would raise their hand in greeting as I drove past - farmers putting their animals in the home paddock for the night or mothers out for a walk in the twilight. They knew my car, and they knew where I was headed, and they smiled and waved - later to go home and say to their families "I saw young Alice heading up the road tonight". It's that kind of place, where everyone knows your name and your business, and after the cold anonymity of the city it feels almost like you've entered a different world.

At last I would round the final bend and see up ahead a gatepost so familiar that I would know it's every line and contour in the dark. I would turn slowly into the long driveway, bumping over the stones, and as I negotiated the puddles and potholes the dog would begin to bark and the porch-lights would flick on. Parking the car under the old elm trees, I would turn the engine off, leaving the keys in the ignition (there was no fear of theft here), and walk across the lawn to the front door, spying through the flyscreen the kitchen table with something delicious already waiting - noone goes hungry here. Mounting the steps, I would swing open the door and step inside, my shoes already abandoned on the edge of the veranda. "Hello darling", my mum always said, "how was the drive?".

Welcome home.

Alice x

P.S. For words and pictures about "A Long Drive" check out other people's take on the theme at Meet Me At Mikes!

Paint the town white and blue in Asilah

2009-04-02T23:53:00.006+02:00

We were the only foreigners on the bus to Asilah, Moroccan seaside resorts not being a major tourist attraction in the middle of winter. Unfortunately, our intended destination's lack of popularity meant that we'd been sitting stationary in the bus station in Tangiers for an hour, since Moroccan buses, as a rule, don't leave until they're full. As the morning ticked by, the bus slowly filled up with locals headed for various destinations down the coast, and we finally got underway, only to discover a second idiosyncrasy of the Moroccan bus system - basically, you can get off the bus wherever you like. This had the result of turning what should have been a quick 40-minute journey into a 2-hour saga of continual stops and starts, as the bus pulled over at seemingly random intervals to drop locals off on the side of the highway - often with absolutely no dwellings (or any signs of life, apart from the occasional goat) nearby.

Our nerves were already slightly frayed, then, by the time the we pulled up outside a ramshackle concrete building, with goats grazing peacefully under a faded sign saying 'Asilah'. We looked at each other with slightly raised eyebrows - was this the sophisticated costal resort town we'd been promised? There was no point in quibbling, however, as the bus had already departed, so, with noone in sight to ask directions from, we shouldered our packs and headed cautiously towards what we hoped was the centre of town.

It got better.

Smiles crept slowly onto our faces as we neared the medina - the costal breeze danced around us (a welcome feeling after a week in the desert) and then swept up to rustle the leaves of the palm trees which rose above white-washed houses. The whole effect, coming from the seediness of Tangiers, was astounding. We wandered, slightly awestruck, through the almost deserted streets marvelling at the buildings, which were painted in every shade of blue imaginable - from darkest navy to delicate cornflower.

Stopping at a tiny patisserie we bought a little box of cakes and then climbed up onto the walls to watch the sun set over the ocean, the colours playing across the blue-and-white medina. Bliss.

In the end, the bus-ride was completely worthwhile.

Alice x

The winding streets of Fes

2009-03-31T10:58:00.012+02:00

Unlike Marrakesh, the medina in Fes didn't seem to have distinct areas for tourists and locals. While some streets were certainly more touristy than others, for the most part everyone was all lumped in together in a fantastic melange. The café where we had breakfast every morning was chock-full of locals hashing out the affairs of the day over a glass of mint tea, while tunic-wearing school children mixed seamlessly with tourists on the street. Vendors hawking souvenirs and leather goods squeezed happily in between stalls stacked with oranges and live chickens. In some ways I think this meant the city felt more alive than Marrakesh - you never felt like you were separated from everyday life.

It was one of my favourite places in Morocco. We had breakfast in the same café every morning (I still dream of the freshly squeezed OJ) and then, after a quick glance at our map to choose a vague direction, we started walking. We walked miles and miles up, down and around the alleys of the medina, passing beautiful mosques, tiny hidden gardens, and gorgeous riads. The wonderful thing about Fes was how easy it was to spend a whole day walking in seeming circles, and yet never pass the same thing twice. (As far as we knew!)

In between plates of couscous, we checked out the dye pits at the tanneries - they were dying red leather the day we were there, can you tell what the day before was? - as well as the amazing local pottery, which is blue and white and completely beautiful. (Sadly after much coveting I left without a single bowl, as I knew there was no way I could get it home in one piece. But all the more reason to go back, right?)

After a long days walking we were pretty exhausted, so the only sensible thing to do was to head straight to one of the rooftop restaurants near the main gate and soak up the last of the sun's rays over a mint tea.

Just thinking about it makes me long for Morocco so much it almost hurts.

Alice x

Pretty Parisian Peonies (or: "things I like about Paris")

2009-03-29T18:23:00.004+02:00

{originally uploaded by maralina}

One thing I love about living in Paris is the flower markets. Having lived in a perpetually drought-stricken country town for much of my life, fresh flowers have always seemed to me like the most beautiful of luxuries. How wonderful, then, to be able to buy (cheap!) fresh flowers at a moment's notice! Every quartier in Paris has at least one florist - and then there are the flower markets, brimming over with colourful blooms at all times of the year.

{originally uploaded by victoria}

After my rather disastrous day yesterday, I decided that heading out to find some flowers today would be a sure-fire way of rekindling my passion for parisian living. And I wasn't disappointed - after much indecision, I settled on these beautiful peonies. (I'd been secretly coveting fresh peonies ever since Jo blogged about their significance in feng shui - not that I would ever admit to believing in that kind of thing. But hey, can't hurt, right?)

Ce sont trés jolies, n'est-ce pas?

Happy weekend-ing.

Alice x

It hailed today...

2009-03-28T21:32:00.003+01:00

{originally uploaded by Julie Smith David}

...and I almost cried. Not so much because of the hail, as because I was hoping that I would wake up to blue skies and sunshine so that I could go and sit in the park and everything would be happy and sunny and bright. But instead I woke up and it was raining, and grey. I moped around the apartment all morning till I finally decided to go out with a friend for hot chocolate, so that the day wasn't totally wasted, and I got food poisoning and barely made it home, I felt so sick! I've spent the rest of the day in bed.

So I'm not in love with Paris today. I've been browsing feverishly on flickr looking at images of Melbourne, which is not making me feel any better. I found this picture - see second building, the furthest away, on the left? That's the Potter café, where I worked right up until I moved to Paris last year. I miss it so - the coffee and the customers and the brunetti's cakes.

I think maybe I'm a bit homesick, too.

Tomorrow is another day,
Alice x

Gently down the stream

2009-03-26T08:54:00.004+01:00

Last weekend (on what turned out to be our last sunny day for awhile) we headed out to the Bois de Vincennes on the outskirts of Paris for a picnic. After cycling all the way around the park (which is apparently 3x larger than Central Park in NYC) to make room for lunch, we lay down on the bank eating strawberries & drinking cheap champagne, and wondering if we could convince any of the little french children playing around us to teach us to speak french. (I struggle so much with the french language, so whenever I hear french kids talking I get crazily jealous: "look! she's using the imperative, and I bet she doesn't even know what the imperative is! why can't I do that?")

The sunshine and champagne had obviously gone straight to our heads, because after lunch someone suggested hiring rowboats and rowing around the lake - and we all agreed!

I assure you, it's not as easy as it looks!

Row, row, row your boat

Gently down the stream

Merrily merrily merrily merrily

Life is but a dream!

Bisous,

Alice x

Hyacinths for the soul

2009-03-25T15:24:00.004+01:00

One of nature's little miracles has been taking place on my kitchen table this week.

If of thy mortal goods thou art bereft
And of thy slender store two loaves alone to thee are left,
Sell one, and with the dole
Buy hyacinths to feed thy soul.

(Sadi, Persian poet, 1184 - 1291)

Little lost flower

2009-03-20T12:58:00.004+01:00

I was walking around my quartier enjoying the sunshine yesterday when I stumbled across a little garden in a square just off the Boulevard Saint-Germain. The garden had obviously just been replanted (probably for spring - hurrah!) and most of the flowers hadn't begun to bloom, so the one spot of colour caught my eye, and I moved in for a closer look.

Then I did a double take. Isn't that... a bottlebrush? In Paris? I was sure that they were unique to Australia (and wikipedia agrees with me). Intrigued, I walked all the way around the square trying to find some indication as to whether the garden was particularly related to les antipodes in some way, but there were no signs. Whatever the reason, I'm happy to have found this little piece of home tucked away in the heart of Paris - I can't wait until the rest of the plants start to come into bloom!

Bisous,
Alice x

An Open Letter to Paris

2009-03-19T20:39:00.006+01:00

Dear Paris,

I'm sorry I've been neglecting you recently. It's just that I've been so excited about reliving my Moroccan adventures that I haven't really had time to post about you as well. I know that's unfair, especially since you've been pulling out all your stops just to get me to notice you - that's what the past week of perfect spring weather has been about, right?

I guess you were frustrated on the weekend, when I spent a completely blissful Sunday in Montmartre - sitting in tiny cafés, eating amazing chocolate & almond pastries and generally soaking up the bohemian parisienne atmosphere - and I didn't take a single photo, let alone write about it. That was wrong of me.

You were probably pretty annoyed on Tuesday, too, when I went to the hairdresser (for the first time ever in Paris!) and got a proper parisienne haircut, and bantered with the coiffeuse - all in french - and it didn't rate a mention either.

Most of all I can see why you'd be upset that I haven't talked about the amazing change in the weather that's been happening over the past week - that I've been woken every morning by the sunshine, that the cafés have all moved their tables out onto the terraces, that I haven't had to wear my winter coat once. I apologise. You've been beautiful.

I promise I'll do better from now on. Just keep the clouds away, ok?

Bisous,

Alice x

What goes down must come up (or something like that)

2009-03-17T20:03:00.006+01:00

I had originally only planned to do one post of Sahara photos, because really, seen one sand dune seen 'em all, right?

Wrong! I've decided I love these sunrise photos so much that I couldn't bear for you not to see them (despite their obvious similarities to the previous sunset!) besides which, I don't want to miss out on telling you about our saharan sunrise. So...

If it's possible, sunrise was even more magical than the sunset. After spending the night wrapped in blankets smelling suspiciously like camel, we were woken at 6am by the sound of our Berber guides clapping their hands outside the tent. In the pitch dark, we rolled out of bed and grabbed our stuff, which was pretty simple since we hadn't unpacked at all (by the time I'd gone to bed the night before it had been much to cold to consider changing my clothes, so I'd ended up sleeping dressed just as I was, including coat, scarf and beanie - which had the unfortunate side effect of ensuring that my coat smelt like camels for the rest of the trip!) The first rays of sunlight were just beginning to peek over the dunes as we made it onto the camels and set out across the sand.

As we rode it grew lighter and lighter, the colours on the dunes cycling through a rainbow of purple, pink and orange as the sun climbed above the horizon and settled into a beautiful blue sky.

I could have stayed there forever, but eventually the time came to get back onto the camels and head away from the dunes - there were many more things to see and besides, breakfast awaited!

Bisous,

Alice x

The Sandy Sahara at Sunset (and other rhyming fun)

2009-03-15T19:34:00.008+01:00

The road out to the dunes was the bumpiest yet, and our heads were continually battered against the roof of the van as we headed out to find ourselves a little piece of Sahara. Concerningly, at some seemingly random point our driver turned off-road completely, so that we were driving along the edge of the desert, dodging pot-holes, puddles, and the occasional wild camel, with no destination in sight. Finally, however, we spotted our 'camel-train' waiting for us in the distance. Hurrying thankfully out of the van and transferring somewhat awkwardly to our next (slightly smellier) mode of transportation, we set off into the dunes...

The van and any other traces of civilization were soon completely out of sight, and the only other signs of life were the hoof marks of camel-trains gone before us. After an hour or so (which was quite enough camel-riding for us!) we reached the berber tents where we were to spend the night.

As the sun was setting rapidly, we quickly climbed the nearest dune, and then sat and watched the colours play out over the sands.

This is the Africa I was looking for.

Bisous,

Alice x

The many faces of the Atlas

2009-03-10T20:29:00.011+01:00

Adventures in Morocco continued...

We bid farewell to Marrakesh early one morning, and jumped in a minibus full of the usual suspects to drive across the Atlas mountains, destination: the Dades Gorge. I don't know what I'd been expecting from the drive, but the amazing variety of landscapes we saw took me completely by surprise.

After driving through the farmlands and plains surrounding Marrakesh, we began to ascend into the Atlas mountains. At first the hills were lush and rolling...

But the landscape gradually became more and more barren, and the temperature dropped...

Till at last we reached the highest point of our trip and were surrounded, astonishingly, by snowy peaks!

We left the snow behind (thankfully - I wasn't dressed for it after the warmth of Marrakesh) and descended quickly into the Dades valley, where the landscape was much less lush than on the other sides of the mountain, which excited us a little - we were reaching desert country!

After stopping for a break at the kasbah of Ait Benhaddou (a 'kasbah' is like a castle), which was apparently featured in several hollywood films including Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator (no sign of Russell Crowe, sadly), we hopped back in the bus for the last leg...

Finally arriving at the Dades Gorge just as the sun was setting and the changing colours were playing over the valley walls...

Stay tuned - next up : camels, couscous and the Sahara!

Bisous,

Alice x

Magic in Marrakesh: Part 2

2009-03-05T19:11:00.003+01:00

We left off at the end of a rainy day in Marrakesh, with the sky clearing, the clouds receeding, and the sound of the snake charmers in the square.

Thankfully the next day dawned clear and bright, with nary a cloud in the sky. We set off immediately after breakfast and to get lost in the wonders of the souks, buying beautiful embroidered slippers, lanterns, silver-teapots and many many other completely unnecessary but wonderful things. Our aimless wandering through the medina continued till we left the souks and became so utterly lost that we began to get strange looks from passers by as we walked through the empty streets.

It got to the point where we hadn't seen a single other tourist for over an hour, so, after unsuccessfully trying to navigate our way out of the medina using the sun as a compass (all that training in brownies was obviously lost on me), we admitted defeat and gave a young Moroccan boy who'd been trailing us a few coins to lead us back to the main square (which he did with ease).

Undaunted, we had yet another orange juice from one of the many vendors in the square (our professed aim being to try the juice from every one of the twenty-something carts), then headed off in the opposite direction to find a mythical park that some travellers we'd met the night before had given us directions to.

So we walked...

and walked...

Till we finally found this:

An orange grove, a lake, and beyond, a view of snow capped mountains.

(Which while undoubtedly amazing, was diminished in some ways by the fact that we knew we had 5km or so to walk back to the medina.)

In summary - a completely beautiful day, though we definitely felt we'd earned our couscous when we finally made it back into town!

Bisous,

Alice x

A cure for a rainy day

2009-03-04T22:36:00.004+01:00

It was back to rain again in Paris today, which I actually didn't mind. For one, I had resolved to get up this morning and go for a run so as not to waste the sunshine, so when my alarm rang at 7:30am and I heard the rain on the roof, I smiled and went back to sleep without feeling the least bit guilty about it. Secondly, the rain and general gloominess gave me an excuse to try out one of my favourite rainy day cures - hot chocolate at the lovely Lilli's Brownies.

While visiting an american patisserie in Paris might seem a bit passé (how's that for some unintentional alliteration!), Lilli's has the most amazing hot chocolate, in takeaway cups, for only 2 euros! If you've spent much time in Paris, you'll know that's nothing short of a miracle. On top of that, they also do lovely cakes, muffins and other sorts of general 'anglo' baked goods that are often hard to find in this pastry-obsessed city. Plus its warm, cozy, and has some cute seats in the window where you can watch the parade of trendy young parisians from the nearby universities.

I met up with a friend, and we sat in the window with our cups of steaming chocolate and watched the raindrops fall and the world go by. I can think of worse ways to spend a rainy morning.

Bisous,

Alice x

Is that spring I see peeping out from behind that cloud?

2009-03-03T22:30:00.008+01:00

"Just living is not enough. One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower."

(Hans Christian Anderson)

The past few days have seemed as though someone has flicked a switch in Paris - the sun is shining, the clouds have disappeared, and I've almost forgotten how devastatingly cold it was only a few short weeks ago.

The beautiful, blissful sunshine is making me see everything in a different light, and I've been pulling out my camera to take photos of everything and anything, even buildings I've walked past every day for the past 6 months:

The newfound warmth has also brought the Parisians out from their winter hibernations - the Jardin du Luxembourg was crammed on Sunday morning with people just like me gasping wonderingly at the weather, and smiling a little.

It's funny how sunshine can make you smile.

Keep it up, weatherman.

Bisous,

Alice x

Magic in Marrakesh: Part 1

2009-02-27T10:18:00.001+01:00

It was cold, grey and raining slightly as we left Paris, so I practically skipped down the tarmac with happiness when we finally landed in Marrakesh to be greeted by blue skies, sunshine and palm trees. After being royally ripped off by an airport taxi driver (as expected!) we arrived at the edge of the medina to be immediately confronted by all the clichés I'd read about - the touts, the snake charmers, the masses of freshly squeezed orange juice! We'd already booked our accommodation, at the lovely Hotel Ali, and I had scribbled down a rough map from the website, so we headed straight there - much to the dismay of all the people attempting to convince us that their families'/brother's/best friend's hotel was much closer/cleaner/warmer. (Really, warmer. One guy asked us where we were staying and when we told him he shook his head and told us that it was a very cold hotel, but, of course, he knew somewhere with much better heating!)

We ran straight up to the roof terrace, which had an amazing view of the main square, Djemaa el-Fna. Though the sun was still shining, there were storm clouds building ominously in the distance, so we headed straight out to see as much as we could before the clouds caught up with us.

(The view of Djemaa el-Fna from the terrace)

Unfortunately we barely even set foot in the souks before the rain started bucketing down and we were forced to seek shelter in one of the many cafés lining the square, where we ate the first of many amazing plates of couscous washed down with orange juice. It rained for almost 24 hours straight (we later learned that Marrakesh is experiencing one of its wettest winters on record - they apparently had more rain in October alone than they did for the past 4 years combined) and although we hastily bought umbrellas (having not come prepared for torrential rain!) it did put somewhat of a dampener on the first day of sightseeing. Luckily we had no fixed itinerary, so we were able to spend as much time there as we liked, sitting in cafés sipping mint tea and waiting for the deluge to come to an end.

Which it did, in the early evening of our second day. The clouds rolled away, as quickly as they had come, leaving only a clear blue sky and some rosy traces on the horizon as the sun went down.

We ran around in the lovely rain-less twilight, finally experiencing the magic of Djemaa el-Fna as acrobats, story-tellers, snake charmers and henna-ladies (who told us that their henna would help us get a husband - do we look like we need one?) emerged from under their verandas and umbrellas to mill about. The main square stopped being a massive puddle we had to negotiate around and instead became an obstacle course, the game being whether we could get from one side to the other without being cajoled into buying dates, or orange juice, or having our fortunes told.

As the light disappeared, turning from gold to blue to black, we crossed our fingers and wished for a clear skies and sunshine the next day.

Part two tomorrow!

Bisous,

Alice x

Apologies + ready, steady, go!

2009-02-26T23:28:00.005+01:00

Sorry I've been a bit slow on the uploads this week, it's taken longer to get back into the swing of things that I had anticipated! I've been carefully planning my Moroccan posts though - I'm going to try to cover each of the 17 wonderful days individually in the next few weeks. So without futher ado, I give you the first shot on my camera - the Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris at 6:30am, as I made my way to Charles de Gaulle airport.

Here we go!

Bisous,

Alice x

The traveller returns

2009-02-22T22:45:00.003+01:00

I'm back! Fresh off the plane from Tangiers, tired, dirty, and absolutely desperate to return to Morocco as soon as possible. I've got some exciting stories I can't wait to share with you all but right now I'm in desperate need of a shower and a long sleep. Here's a little taster till regular posting resumes tomorrow though: sunrise over the Saharan sand dunes at Merzouga.

Bisous x Alice

We interrupt your regular programming...

2009-02-05T21:38:00.005+01:00

In just over 12 hours time (inshallah) I'll be on an airplane winging my way to Marrakesh! I'm certainly not taking my laptop, and I'm doubtful about the existence of internet cafés in the sahara, so posting for the next two weeks will be sporadic at best. But I promise lots of photos and stories on my return (hopefully good ones). Until then, au revoir.

Bisous X Alice

{photo via flickr}

Australia - isn't that near China?

2009-02-05T15:37:00.012+01:00

Over lunch with a (French) friend today we were discussing what age we'd first learnt to drive, and I mentioned that people where I grew up (in rural Victoria, incase you were wondering) generally learned to drive quite early, as the distances were so great between towns and there was no public transport. She thought about that for a minute, and then asked me a question that made my jaw drop to the floor: "Is that because you lived in near the desert?"

Turns out, she'd recently gone to see the film Australia (not recommended, by the way, unless you're going for the comic value of hearing Nicole Kidman say "crikey") and had somehow deduced that everyone in Australia pretty much lived within skipping distance of the desert. I tried to explain (after I'd finished laughing) that actually, most people in Australia lived nowhere near any sort of desert, but she couldn't understand how that could be possible, since there was obviously so much of it there.

So I showed her this:

Yes, that's right. You can fit the whole EU into Australia and still have space left over.

Australians who have lived overseas (or 'abroad') before will know that people are generally endlessly fascinated and also misinformed about this crazy place we call "Australia". I have been asked, quite seriously, whether I've even ridden a kangaroo (yes, every day to school). A girl in one of my language classes once declared that it never snowed in Australia, and argued with me when I tried to contradict her. And, most hilariously, a Canadian friend of mine once asked me to explain some British slang to her and when I said that I couldn't, because, errr: I'm Australian, she said "oh, but you're almost British!" (About as much as you are, actually).

So in the interests of dispelling some myths and hopefully preventing anyone else asking me whether I've ever held a koala, here are a few facts about Australia:

No, it's not always sunny. Especially in Melbourne. You will probably have to bring a jumper (sorry, 'sweater').
No, Australia and New Zealand are not "the same thing". The distance between Melbourne and Wellington is the same as that between London and Moscow - ie. they're completely separate countries.
Although yes, we do have poisonous snakes and spiders, this does not mean that you are going to get bitten and die. I lived in the bush for 20 years and noone I know has ever died of a snake bite.
Ditto for sharks. It is safe to swim at Bondi Beach. (You think I'm kidding, but I met a German girl who told me she lived in Sydney for 6 months and never once went swimming at the beach because she was too scared of being attacked by a shark!)
"The bush" does not mean "a bush", it is the Australian version of "the woods". We once had an exchange student come and stay with us who got very confused because we said we going to go to the bush, and she was looking out for one giant shrub!
Yes, we say "G'day mate" and most of those other phrases you hear on television (though never "throw another shrimp on the barbie", unless we're being ironic.) No, it's not cute, funny, or quaint. Stop calling me quaint!
No, I do not know this Australian guy named Pete from Sydney that you met once in a bar in Amsterdam. Do you know every single person in your country?
No, we do not drink Fosters. And neither should you.

See ya later mate(s)!

Bisous X Alice

Another day in Paris

2009-02-04T21:22:00.003+01:00

Sunset over the Seine. Everyday I'm surprised at how beautiful this city can be.

I'm thinking these Paris photos could become a regular feature, what do you think?

Bisous X Alice

A wintery picnic

2009-02-04T20:49:00.006+01:00

The last sunny weekend a friend and I jumped on the RER and took a short trip out through the Parisian suburbs to the town of Fontainebleau. The chateau there was refurbished by Napoleon, who preferred it to its more famous sibling, Versailles, which was tainted by association with the Bourbon monarchy. Nowadays Versailles is again the more popular of the two, overrun by hoards of visitors desperate for a glimpse into the lives of Louis XVI and his infamous Queen, Marie Antoinette.

Luckily for us, this meant that we were almost the only people at Fontainebleau, leaving us free to wander the beautiful grounds without being interrupted by camera-carrying tourists (except me, of course!)

We bought the usual cheese, baguettes and pains-aux-chocolat, and had a picnic in the garden, sitting on some marble steps in the sunshine.

Though it soon got much too cold to be sitting outside, and we had to escape into a nearby café for a coffee while our fingers defrosted. The gardens and lake would be lovely in the summer though, I'll have to remember to go back.

Bisous X Alice

Even Parisians have to study sometimes

2009-02-03T12:30:00.005+01:00

I've got two exams today (help!) so there wont be much in the way of posting, as I've got to save all my mental energy for Foucault and Derrida. To tide you over till tomorrow though, here's a photo I took a few weeks ago of the frozen fountains at the Louvre.

Some friends came to visit me so we were doing a bit of a walking tour, and it was so cold we had to keep ducking into cafes every second block just to stop ourselves turning into ice-cubes. I'm not cut out for this winter-thing. Pretty though.

Alright, now back to the books. Bonne journée!

Bisous X Alice

I love to go a-wandering

2009-02-02T15:41:00.004+01:00

{originally uploaded by girlhula}

I'm constantly planning my next trip, even before the last one has finished. As a result, I've just finished marking all my holidays this year in my calendar and have been sitting here planning where I'm going to try and get to for 2009.

The list so far:

February: Morocco - of course. Only 4 more sleeps!

March: Amsterdam - hopefully for the long weekend.

April: London & Edinburgh - for Easter, this is already booked :)

May: Cinque Terre - flights are booked, and I've been pouring over websites searching for the perfect guesthouse.

June: Switzerland - I'd like to get there before the summer crowds, and it's only a few hours on the train from Paris. I'm also hoping to get a long weekend in Grenoble, I feel like I should see a bit more of France, while I'm here.

July: I've got four whole weeks off in July, and at the moment I'm torn between Greece & Turkey or Portugal & Spain. Anyone have any recommendations?

August: Back to Melbourne - this one is pretty non-negotiable, as I'll have 14 weeks left to finish on my degree (finally).

September & October: Will be pretty quiet I think, except maybe some weekends around Victoria.

November - Up to the Gold Coast to visit friends.

December - I'm thinking New Years in Vietnam or Laos, depending on how cheap jetstar will help me get there :)

Looks pretty good, right? I think it's going to be an amazing year. What are you plans for 2009?

Bisous X Alice

A little bit more snowflake sweetness

2009-02-02T12:19:00.009+01:00

I woke up this morning to this lovely scene - snowflakes falling softly outside my window. I know there's many of you more-northern inhabitants who will laugh at my excitement at this tiny covering of snow, but this is the first time that I've seen any of the white stuff in my courtyard (it's quite sheltered) so it seemed kinda special to me.

And if you click on the photo to enlarge it, what can you see?
Actual snowflakes! Awe.

Bisous X Alice

P.S. Incidentally, I discovered quite by accident that the way to make snowflakes show up (if you want to take photos while it's snowing) is to turn the flash on. I'm sure it has something to do with light refraction and what not, though since I failed physics I couldn't say for sure!

New and exciting ways to procrastinate

2009-02-02T10:22:00.005+01:00

This came in the mail for me a few days ago, just in time for me to pack it to take to Morocco this weekend! It's a Holga 135BC from lomography, apparently built just like the old Holgas that take 120 film but modified to take regular 35mm (which is much easier to develop - and kinder on the hip pocket).

We had an unusually sunny day in Paris yesterday, so I took it out for a bit of a test drive. It's lots of fun to use and makes a very satisfying 'click' when you press the shutter release. Unfortunately the viewfinder isn't linked to the lens at all, so I know there will be a few all-black photos when I get the photos back, from the shots where I forgot to take the lens cap off! I can't wait to get them developed, though. I'll be sure to share them with you :)

Thanks also to moominstuff for handy hints about aiming and loading the camera.

Bisous X Alice

P.S. If you're not familiar with lomography, check out a few of the flickr groups on it here and here. It's amazingly beautiful stuff.

So Little Time... So Much Desert

2009-02-01T16:02:00.010+01:00

I've got about a million and one things to do in the next 4 days (including 2000 as-yet-unresearched words to write at some point), so of course I'm procrastinating like crazy. But whatever I don't get done by friday will have to wait a few weeks, because by noon I'll be on an airplane winging my to... MOROCCO! I am unbelievably excited, I've been dying to go there for years and I've finally managed to organize two whole free weeks for my first sojourn to the African continent. (I just love that it's in Africa. It's so much more exciting to say than plain old "Europe".)

In my (non-existent) spare minutes I've been trying to nail down a rough itinerary, but everytime I think I've settled on something I turn the page of my trusty lonelyplanet and find another 5 must-sees. Here's one place I will definitely be visiting though:

The sand dunes at Ergg Chebbi. It's like, the Sahara. Don't think I won't be singing the theme from Lawrence of Arabia the whole way.

Bisous X Alice

{image via brockleyboyo at flickr}

A little peek onto my bedside table

2009-01-31T20:44:00.012+01:00

I've never been a one-book-girl. I think its nicer to have several on the go at once, so that I can read whatever suits my mood at the time.

To this end, I always have a pile of books on my bedside table so that I can make up my mind once I'm in bed whether I'd prefer something light, or something serious, or something that will put me to sleep. Actually, what often happens is that I'll read something so serious that I wont be able to sleep, and then I'll have to turn the light back on and read a chapter of Harry Potter so I can think *happy thoughts* and be able to nod off. Here's what's in my stack at the moment:

Je Suis Australienne by Rosemary Lancaster (University of W.A. Press, 2008)

This book was sent to me for Christmas by an Australian friend, who obviously knows me way too well. It's a collection of stories about Australian women who lived in Paris between 1800 and 1945, beautifully retold by way of their letters and diaries. I haven't got very far into it yet, but I can't wait to be inspired by their tales of life in Paris, and to see whether there are any links to my own! (This is one of my favourite things about reading books or watching films about Paris nowadays - so many of the things they mention are things I've seen or experienced as well, and it makes me feel more parisian, somehow.)

The Troublesome Offspring of Cardinal Guzman by Louis de Bernières (Minerva, 1993)

I picked this one up yesterday, actually, at my favourite english bookstore Shakespeare & Co for 4 euros! (secondhand, of course.) I haven't started it yet, but I read his more famous work Captain Corelli's Mandolin a few months ago and loved it, the language was beautiful and though it was a love-story, it wasn't at all clichéd. I think I might take this one with me to Morocco next week, his books have the right sort of pace for the kind of thing you want to read on a train.

The Beggar Maid by Alice Munro (Vintage, 2004)

I've just recently been introduced to Alice Munro's work and I'm completely in love with it - this is the third collection of hers I've bought this month. The stories seem so simple yet they stay with you long after you've put the book down. I read somewhere that you should only read one of her stories a day, because otherwise you don't have enough time to mull over everything, and I think that's quite right.

I Capture the Castle by Dodie Smith (Vintage, 2004)

Lastly one of my favourite books of all time. I have a copy of this in storage somewhere in Australia, but when I saw this new edition with this beautiful new cover I couldn't resist. My copy at home has a still from the movie version on the front of it, which I hate, so this cover seems to do Dodie's words much better justice. If you've seen the movie and didn't like it, don't be put off reading the book, it's so much better. I'll leave you with a teaser from the first chapter, which will hopefully either inspire you to run out and buy a copy this instant, or to search your bookshelves for your own copy and re-read it - either way you will not be disappointed, I promise.

"I write this sitting in the kitchen sink. That is, my feet are in it; the rest of me is on the draining-board, which I have padded with our dog's blanket and the tea-cosy. I can't say that I am really comfortable, and there is the depressing smell of carbolic soap, but this is the only part of the kitchen where there is any daylight left. And I have found that sitting in a place where you have never sat before can be inspiring - I wrote my very best poem whilst sitting on the hen-house."

Off to find a hen-house.

Bisous x Alice

Snow Falling on the Tuilleries

2009-01-31T09:58:00.005+01:00

According to the locals it doesn't snow very often in Paris, even in the middle of winter, so I was lucky to see the Tuilleries Gardens blanketed in white at the beginning of January.

The novelty of it still didn't make it any warmer, however, and on first sight the white sparkly stuff just made my little australian body want to curl up and hibernate till spring.

Unfortunately, considering all the things I have to do between now and April, that wasn't really possibility, so instead I took my hands out of my pockets (risking them falling off due to the cold!) and snapped this photo.

The Parisian winter uniform is on fully show here - black, black, black. Makes for nice silhouettes though!

Bisous x Alice

An Autumn Adventure in Biarritz

2009-01-30T21:21:00.010+01:00

As it got colder in Paris last October, a few friends and I escaped for a last sunny weekend in Biarritz before we succumbed to winter. I think autumn is probably the best time to go to Biarritz - there's still the same lovely beach, restaurants and cheap coffee (compared to Paris!) but you avoid the crazy crowds that descend on the town in July and August.

We stayed in the very sweet Hotel Anjou, 5 minutes walk from the centre of town. From our window you could see a tiny glimpse of the ocean - this is a photo of the sun coming up at 7am, as we fell into bed for a nap after the all-night train journey from Paris:

Later in the day we had an amazing picnic of local produce purchased from the fresh food market - a delicious dark loaf called, fantastically, "Viking Bread" (which is half the reason we bought it, to be honest), plus cheese, strawberries, raspberries, an amazing "gateau basque" and, of course, wine.

After sitting in the sun all day, we braved a swim in the ocean. Turns out, the atlantic ocean in October is nothing like the Mediterranean! But I'm sure the icy dip was good for our health, or something! (In any case, it helped wake us up, after a little bit too much wine).

This last photo just makes me want to jump on a train and find some ocean. For all its charms, you don't get views like this in Paris.

Bisous x Alice

(P.S. Those hills in the distance - are in Spain!)

A Lust for Wandering

2009-01-30T16:05:00.001+01:00

Lying in bed last night I had the most amazing idea for this very first post, with a delicious wordplay on "wander" and "lust", and some beautifully sculpted phrases on the art of travel.

Now, of course, I can't remember a word of it.

So instead, let me take this opportunity to say 'hi, how you doing?' to the big-wide-blogging world out there.

How to introduce myself? Well, *Singing* "I've been around the world a couple of times..." No, wait, that's plagiarism. This is harder than I thought it would be.

In any case, I'm an Australian girl living in Paris, with a love for travel, writing and photography and hopefully with something interesting to say. We'll see.

For now,

Bisous x Alice

P.S. The photo is from Biarritz in the south of France. More to come!